I haven't updated my blog recently, I've just been too busy having a kick ass time. And when I am near a computer I am checking email and pay pal and feeling overwhelmed at the generosity of my friends and family. But tomorrow we leave Ubud, so I want to take some time to write about what we've been up to.

When we arrived in Ubud, we spent the first 9 days at our friend Sven's house. We loved staying there, but then new people were moving in and it was time for us to find a new place.

At the Alex Grey, we had just happened to sit next to two ex-pat Japanese women, one named Yasuko and one name Risa. It would prove to be an excellent seating choice, since Risa was the woman who ended up taking me to the orphanage, and one of Yasuko's many businesses is a villa, which was where we moved next.

We love Ubud and our new home!

Our bed at Yasuko's

View from where we eat breakfast every morning

On my birthday, we woke up and had breakfast upstairs with Risa, my birthday twin. Since Yasuko also owns a restaurant and bakery, every day we get pastries and buns and fresh bread.

Risa and I the morning of our mutual birthday

After breakfast, we headed into town. Elesa and I planned to hit the spa, but when we got to the main road in Ubud it was packed. With hundreds of people wearing the same shirt, with my birth date on it!



We realized that the entire main road had been closed down, and a giant parade of people were headed our way. In Bali when someone dies, they are buried. Then after several years, when the timing is auspicious, the body is exhumed and cremated. It sounds a little weird, but I love the idea. In North America after someone dies, the death is not often spoken about. But here, after they have had time to grieve, everyone comes together and celebrates life.

So from what I gathered, this massive parade heading towards us was the cremation ceremony for some important people. First came two enormous black cows, followed by two towers. The power lines had to be cut because they would have been too tall to fit otherwise. They were all supported by bamboo, and carried by dozens of people. Between each one were people playing music. It was such a wave of people that we climbed to the top of a (very safe) building that was under construction (don't worry Grama, we wore hard hats and steel toed boots of course).

Building we climbed to get a better view

View from the top

One of two giant towers

Pictures of the people to be cremated

That day was one of the hottest days we'd experienced since coming to Ubud, and after watching for a while we climbed down and headed to the spa. Hitoshi dropped us off and we enjoyed 4 hours of bliss - 1.5 hour full body massage, a hair cream bath (very popular here, it's basically what it sounds like with a pretty rad head massage as well) and then a facial. And all for $40!

After we were as relaxed as humanly possible, we met our old house mates, Sven, Yoshi and Russ, along with Mark Lee, at a Mexican place.

Mexican for dinner on my birthday - delicious of course!

A few days after my birthday, we decided to explore a little more of Bali. Elesa was itching for beach time, and we wanted to check out the two volcano's, so we headed north.

The first day we drove to Guntug Batur, not the largest volcano in Bali but the most active. Near the top is a large lake, surrounded by a few small villages. People who want to trek to the top of the volcano usually stay in one of the villages so they can wake up at three am and get to the top in time for sunrise. Feeling neither the need to trek or wake up at such an ungodly hour, we opted to simply stay in one of the villages overnight and enjoy the view from there.

Less than an hour after we left Ubud, we stopped on the side of the road for a water break. After I took a picture of my traveling companions, I put my camera back in my bag and pulled out my water bottle. And that's the moment my camera tumbled to the ground and cracked.

The last pic I took with my camera before it fell on the pavement and cracked

Oh well, onwards and hopwards. We made it to Toya Bungkah a few hours after leaving Ubud. As we were driving into the village, people started riding their motor bikes along side us, asking us where we were staying and trying to get us to follow them. Ahh, off season. I love your discount prices and the special attention I get as an only guest, but I'm not so into the desperate feeling of an empty town. We realized that Toya Bungkah was a virtual ghost town, and we had our pick of places.

Our hotel in Toya Bungkah, where we were the only guests

It was a little lonely being the only guests in this three story hotel, but luckily Hitoshi made a friend right away.

Hitoshi with his first beetle

It wasn't a very eventful night, we ate dinner at the hotel and went to bed early.

View of Gunung Abang (Mount Abang) from our hotel in Toya Bungka

The next morning Hitoshi woke up early and went to the hot springs. We were told it was $15 each, so Elesa and I opted to sleep in. But Hitoshi found out it was only $8, including a towel and a shower, and at 7 am he had the whole place to himself.

When he got back we hit the road, heading north down the other side of the mountain towards the beach.

Cabbage Patch on volcanic rock in Toya Bungkah

The drive was nice but pretty foggy, we donned our ponchos to stave off rain but it never came. Those ponchos do a great job of keeping you warm anyway.

Gates on the highway from Kintimani to Amed

About an hour into our drive my tummy started getting pretty upset, and it seemed like it was my turn for Bali Belly. Elesa and Hitoshi had both had it in Ubud and I thought I'd escaped but no luck. The drive to Amed took about 4 or 5 hours but it felt much longer. When we got there, we saw that this popular dive was also a ghost town, and after some searching and bargaining Elesa got the three of us our own bungalow with an ocean view for only $18 a night. Perfect, a place for me to be horizontal for the next two days.

The gecko in our bathroom in Amed

Elesa did get some beach time, and Hitoshi went fishing and caught a ton of fish, but I spent the whole time in Amed reading so I don't have much to report. After being gone for three nights we headed back to our beloved Ubud.

The drive back was one of the most stunning drives I have ever done, I was so glad to be on the back of a bike where I could just take everything in. I took a ton of photo and video, but non of them do it justice. I wish I could post video, but my internet connection here is just too slow, so these will have to do:

All the pics of our gorgeous drive

We made one stop on the way back to Ubud, at the Besakih Temple. It is over 3 square km and it is where the Balinese believe their ancestors live. It was very beautiful, but a complete tourist trap. You have to pay entry, parking, you must take a tour guide, you are followed by hawkers selling you stuff and asked for donations inside the temple. And then they tell you your donations are too small! Overwhelmed and frustrated (and still not feeling 100%), I walked around a bit and then waited while Hitoshi and Elesa did the full tour.






Until then, our drive had been rain free, but after that the skies opened. Our last hour to Ubud was a downpour, and we were so happy to make it back to our home at Yasuko's.

Since coming back, we have been trying to enjoy Ubud as much as we can. We went to a gamelan concert, with all female musicians and dancers. We've eaten more great food, and visited friends.

I think Hitoshi hearts you and Elesa is eating a burger

They want your love at Mojo Burrito

Bali Buddha

Statue at the end of the main road in Ubud

Demons that locals are making all over the island for Balinese New Years

Ogo Ogo

We went and did batik for the day, which is drawing a design on fabric with wax and painting it. Then the wax is removed and creates white lines. Many sari's and wall hangings are made with this method. Risa recommended a place that she has been going to and learning batik, so we went to check it out. This tiny little shop has some very talented and busy people, who make sarongs for many festivals in North America, including the Oregon Country Fair and Mile High in Colorado. They also make ones for bands, and had a ton of Dave Mathew's Band ones laying around.

We went in the back and chose a design to do. Elesa did a mandala, and I did one with flowers for my Grama. Hitoshi did two drawings on t-shirts.

Me sweating my ass of and doing Batik

People at the Batik shop free-hand drawing designs with wax, really cool to watch
Phew! So tomorrow we leave Ubud and head to Seminyak. Two nights there, then we part ways with Elesa as she heads home and we head to the Philippines (with a night in Kuala Lumpur on the way). Until then, Salamat Malam! (Good Evening!)