To Ko Phangan

New pics @ http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=89231&l=b63ec&id=509955156

After learning that two friends, Jill and Kix, that I met at Burning Man in 2006, were staying on Ko Phangan, we decided to head there next. The island is in the Gulf of Thailand, and just north of the larger, more developed Ko Samui. The island is famous for their Full Moon Parties, held once a month all year round and anywhere from 3,000 to 30,000 people in peak season show up for it. Personally, it's not my cup of tea (my impression is too many drunk 20 year old partying to bad house music, but I could be wrong) so we planned to wait until after it was over to head to the island.

On January 26th, we woke up in the morning to take a bus to the main port and then take a ferry. The 'air con bus' that we were supposed to take for about three hours turned into three mini vans, two buses and ten hours just to get to the ferry. All day we were shuffled from bus station (I use that term loosely) to bus station, and then left waiting anywhere from 45 minutes to several hours. We realized that in trying to fill the bus as much as possible, they would make everyone wait around as long as it took to gather more people, even if 20 people were left waiting for hours for 2 to show up.

After a bumpy ferry ride, and twelve and a half less than awesome hours after we left Khao Lak, we arrived at the pier in Ko Phangan. We were so glad to see Jill and Kix waiting to pick us up! They doubled us on their scooters to the house they had rented, and were generous to offer us space in their pad. Once we got here though we found out that the place next to theirs was open, and having a bed won out over the floor.

After staying two nights, we realized that this island had everything we wanted (beach, jungle, calm ocean, great weather), and so we rented the house. There are four houses here, which have one large room for a bed room, a bathroom, a kitchen and a large front porch. Our kitchen has a fridge, a sink and two burners that run on propane. We rented the house for a month for 7000 bhat, which is about $225 for a month. Our neighbours are Jill and Kix next to us, an Austrailian named Manuel who is here training in Thai boxing next to them, and across from us a man in his 50s who apparently comes here every year for a few months.

The island is quite small, we can drive down one side in about 20 minutes. It is very lush and not too developed, with almost 70% of the island protected. We are staying on the west side of the island, only a five minute walk from the beach. Our beach however is a sort of mini pier for all the long tail boats, so instead of walking there we usually ride the scooter somewhere. We haven't explored too much, although we have found the best snorkeling spot, on a beach up the west side called Ao Mae Haad. There is good coral and tons of fish, and we've been back there a few times. Hitoshi loves it and brings his snorkeling mask everywhere.

Less than ten minutes from us on scooter is a market and a bunch of shops. If we get up early enough we go to the market to buy fresh seafood for dinner. If we don't make it to the fresh food market, there are grocery stores or another market that has about twenty stalls selling anything from curry to fried chicken.

We did make it to a half moon party, which was in the jungle and very organized, since they do throw it twice a month all year. There was a 300 bhat ($10) cover, and one big stage. There were lots of black light decorations, and three bars. The music was mostly progressive house and I'd say there were at least 400 people there. It was ok, probably would have been funner if I was drinking more. Jill, Kix and I did split a bucket, which is a mickey of whiskey (or gin or vodkha), a can of pop and a red bull. I was warned about them before I left, and a not so fond memory of a bucket party a Crystal's does come to mind, so I hadn't had one yet. It was good though, and I do see buckets in my future, but that night I wasn't really in party mode. We hung out for a few hours, Hitoshi spun fire and then came home.

Other than that we have been lazing around, relaxing in our hammock, playing with our staffs, enjoying the weather which is perfect and swimming in the ocean. It is great to have a house, and be able to buy fresh, cheap groceries. We plan on staying here until we return to Bangkok for some shopping a few days before we fly home. I know exactly how lucky I am, and I am grateful everyday to be with the man I love, surrounded by so much beauty and great friends.